|1991 VW Golf Mk2 Rust Removal & Respray|
Car: 1991 VW Golf Mk2 1.8 Driver
During its previous ownership(s), this Mk2 Golf has at some point gained a lot of stone chips. Although most of them have been blobbed over with touch-up paint at some point, it seems whoever did this had missed the lower part of the passenger door!
The lower part of the passenger door has become a problem area with some serious rust patches developing, and something needed to be done about this.
None of the other parts of the car were affected badly, it was just this one area, so at least it meant all the rust could be treated together in one go, and the area repainted easily enough. The rest of the car could just have any stonechips painted over again as required.
Here's the rust.
First of all the car needed a good wash to remove all the dirt & grime making the whole process much easier.
After the car was dry, the worse of the rust was scraped off using a putty knife / scraper.
Rough sandpaper was then used to remove any further rust and to flatten the surface down as much as possible.
Although the areas had looked bad to begin with, no areas appeared to have rusted through to the inside, which was a very good thing.
The whole area was then keyed with some dry, wet&dry paper in preparation for when it gets painted.
The exposed areas were treated with Hammerite Kurust. The Kurust was just brushed on, making sure sure all the pitted areas and edges were covered. The Kurust turns black as it reacts with the rust.
Time for the first go with the P38 epoxy car filler!
This was applied very easily, with the surface and rough areas being fairly flat.
This was sanded at first with some dry wet&dry prior to adding more filler to any pin holes or dipped areas.
More filler has been added to the pin holes and dipped areas.
The area was now smoothed down until completely level using finer and finer sheets of wet wet&dry paper wrapped around a flat sanding block.
Most of the filling and sanding was done with the door open, to make it far easier to do and meaning only a very small area needed masking to prevent any damage to other parts of the car body.
This finished surface was by now looking as smooth as glass, and so was allowed to dry prior to masking and priming.
More often than not though the priming stage will reveal any bits that may not be quite as level as they look at this stage!
Only part of the area was masked and the primer was sprayed on with the door open.
At the end of the day the masking tape was removed in case it rained overnight.
No rain was forecast but if this 'Stanley' masking tape gets wet at all, all the glue tends to stay on the surface rather than peeling off with the tape, and removing the glue is so time consuming that we did not want to take the chance.
At least now, all the previously exposed metal was now protected with the primer paint if it did rain.
The next day the weather was fine once more, and looking at the area with the primer on, gives you a better chance to see any defects in the freshly filled surface, giving a further opportunity to improve these.
The panel was smoothed with fine wet&dry and allowed to dry, before masking the entire surrounding area ready for the next stage of painting.
The area was primed once more, this time things were looking great, and so the area was rubbed down in final preparation for painting using wet wet&dry paper.
The panel quickly dried, with the day brightening up.
Hopefully we would get all the painting done out of the direct sunshine.
A coat of genuine VW black spray paint was sprayed on, this was a metallic paint colour & so we would have to get this right before spraying on the top clear lacquer coating.
Around the rim/edge was done first with the door open prior to painting the panel with the door closed.
The first coat of black went on well and was given time to 'flash', where the paint colour seems to even out as it is drying.
A second coat of black paint was sprayed on, this was sprayed on a bit thicker and went on very well indeed, we were more than satisfied by this stage.
It's when you spray on the clear lacquer that you begin to see the real change though. This is when the real colour begins to show.
The trouble was the lacquer is usually always much harder to spray as it usually comes out of the tin much heavier.
This was beginning to show on the panel, because trying to cover the whole area correctly was causing some slight runs in the the clear coat! Although this looks bad, because this is in the clearcoat stage we decided just to carry on, as any runs can always be removed at the final buffing down /flatting stages in the weeks to come.
A second coat of genuine VW clear coat has been added.
A third coat of clear coat was put on to allow for a slightly thicker lacquer finish. Hopefully this would compensate for any extra buffing that may be required, rather than buffing all the laquer back off!
After removing the masking tape and newspaper, from any angle above the trim, the paintwork looked a perfect match with the rest of the cars' paintwork. Looking at the paintwork from lower down though, you can see the hazyness in the laquer coat but this will be buffed up in a few weeks time!
It looked great from any direction, unless you looked at it from really low to the ground, then you can see the slight runs in the lacquer coat (although because the lacquer is clear it just looks like black paint runs, which it is not), but this will be greatly improved when the car is finished, by buffing the whole area after the paint/lacquer is left for a few weeks to cure properly first.
There is no point doing all this work though, if their is any rust problem on the inside of the cars door though, and so the door panel was removed for inspection.
Small dots of rust were all that was on the inner surface of the door, but rather than just leave these, now that the door panel was off they may as well be treated.
A quick brush over with some Hammerite under body seal should do the trick.
A few minutes later, the door panel was already ready to be refitted!
Looking good, real good! but it will look better in a few weeks time when it all gets buffed up!
I bet you've already begun to forget how rusted it was in the first place!
Several weeks later...
From this angle in this light you really can see just how hazy the lacquer is!
Anyway the time has now come to buff the paint up!
Using whatever polish you have handy (but nothing too abrasive as this is still new paint!) buff, and buff the paint until it really shines!
We had some Turtle Wax Original handy, and this seemed to give good results although this stage does take quite some time using the polish both by hand and machine, but the results are worth it...
What a great result!